When it comes to targeting a big fish water or trying to capture a particular target fish using thoroughly tried and tested rigs is a very good thing!! Most waters that fall into this category require a huge effort to crack – and the last thing you really want to do is flick out a rig that you hope might do the job. That’s essentially why rigs like the Hinged Stiff, Clone and Ronnie rigs are extremely popular amongst big fish anglers, as the mechanics on all these presentations are bullet proof… By that I mean that the hookbait essentially sits in a set position in relation the hook, and reacts in a controlled way when inhaled in past those big rubbery lips.

The Multi Rig offers broadly similar mechanics to the HSR in that the hookbait sits on a D and the hook link just below the hook sits at an angle to promote a positive fast reaction when sucked in. This potentially gives good solid hook holds when tied correctly meaning this presentation should be right at the top of the fully trusted big fish rig list too.

The simple fact that it also utilises fewer key components (so you can get away with smaller or less buoyant hookbaits) and it also offers the angler the chance to change hooks whenever required, just by removing a Covert Flexi Screw or Flexi Hook Swivel off the ‘D’ is obviously hugely advantageous in itself.

Hooklink and hook choice are obviously hugely important (and personal) decision. Certainly hooklink choice is critical in terms of how the hook link lays and should be carefully considered in light of what you’re trying to achieve – so key factors to think about include the lead arrangement (which relates to stiffness) you want to use the rig with, the colour and finally the diameter breaking strain of the hooklink material.

Skinned hooklinks vary enormously in terms of true strength, their skinned diameter, the materials stiffness and how they knot when tying the loops. These are all vital factors that need to be considered with the Multi Rig so choose carefully.

A true figure of 8 loop knot is probably the best performing and simplest choice with skins. Overhand loop knots are not as strong – and the last thing you need is for an inadequate loop knot to give just because “it’s the knot I’ve always used’. There’s simply no room for rig failures. If in doubt tie yourself a few rigs in different materials and try your hardest to brutalise and destroy them! Show NO MERCY! Be extreme and if it survives you’re probably heading along the right lines.

Most of us will choose something like 25lb or 35lb Ultra Skin for its inert strength. As it’s a soft (ish) skinned hooklink it perfect to use on conventional lead clip arrangements – and it beds down really nicely on figure of 8 loop knots and it has a lovely feel. The suppleness makes tying it easy and with the larger eye on the slightly beaked Rigga BCR it’s a doddle to get through the eye even at the highest breaking strain/diameter.

If you choose to use this rig with a helicopter style lead arrangement you’ll be advised to carefully watch the rig in flight or use the much more rigid Stiff Ultra Skin which is absolutely tip-top and perfect for the job. The rigidity really helps stop the hook link wrap up the line and ensures excellent presentation.

Obviously, the height the pop up is controlled by the length of the loop, but you also need to factor in the width of the break in the skin as ideally you’ll be positioning the counterbalance on the hook link side, away from the loop knot, so the hook section is able to spin and twist and react faster and more freely. Perhaps it’s a small detail, but it’s always the small details that make the difference between an OK rig and a great rig.


Step 1. Skinned hooklinks such a Ultra Skin and Stiff Ultra Skin are perfect for tying Multi-Rigs.


Step 2. Take a Rigga BCR Hook.


Step 3. Form a Fig.8 Loop Knot at both ends and bed down.


Step 4. Make sure the loop at one end is large enough to fit a hook through (length ways).


Step 5. Make a small break in the coating just above the knot.


Step 6. Push the loop through the eye of the hook.


Step 7. Slip a Covert Flexi Bait Screw onto the portion of hooklink loop you have already passed through the eye of the hook.


Step 8. Secure the hook and Covert Bait Screw in position by passing the loop over the hook as shown.


Step 9. With the hooklink and bait screw now in position it should look like this – with the hooklink forming a ‘D’ on the back of the shank, with the bait screw on it.


Step 10. Take a super bouyant pop up and screw it onto the bait screw.


Step 11. Mould on just enough Critical Mass Tungsten Putty to make the hook and pop up hook bait sink when testing it in the edge.


Step 12. Rig should resemble as shown.


The finished rig.