Stiff rigs and combi rigs that incorporate some semi stiff monofilament have an awesome track record for catching big carp all over the world.
This is because incorporating the correct rigidity in the hooklink stops the hook bait landing in a crumpled heap on the lead. It also helps improve the anti ejection properties of the hooking arrangement and avoid tangles. The materials we’ve used historically have varied enormously – from memory free leaders through to heavy breaking strain Fluorocarbon – but up until now they have all been a compromise between subtlety and the right balance of rigidity.
With the introduction of Trick-Link we think we have developed the perfect boom and stiff link material. This superb colour, low memory monofilament hooklink material has been developed to balance rigidity with that little bit of flexibility that allows the rig to settle just right. We all know that the best presentation will give the best chance of a bite…
Why is it so good?
Firstly, there’s the lovely camouflaged ‘Choddy’ grey/green colour that blends in seamlessly with the bottom of a wide range of aquatic environments – including gravel clay and sand pits, lakes, canals and rivers. Secondly it has superb knot strength and it’s ties up neatly and steams well. All little tweaks that help your finished rig perform to its best possible potential…
For forming loops we recommended using either ‘Figure of 8’ loop knots or the improved ‘Non-Slip’ loop knot to form the nicest, neatest round loop and for maximum strength with Gardner Trick-Link (please check the video in the Video Tab for instructions on how to tie this knot).
*Incorporating looped attachment at the swivel end ensures the hook can twist and take hold more effectively with any stiff hooklink presentation.
Trick-Link is available in 2 diameters / breaking strains:
| Breaking Strain | Diameter | Meterage |
| 20lb (9.1kg) | 0.45mm | 50m |
| 25lb (11.3kg) | 0.50mm | 50m |
‘Non Slip Loop Knot’ step by step guide:
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- What you need…
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- Step 1 – If you’re using monofilament or Fluorocarbon materials for hingged stiff rig boom sections and stiff rigs a nice tidy loop allows the rig to move freely.
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- Step 2 – start the loop knot with a simple overhand knot about 20 cm from the end.
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- Step 3 – Form a loop and pass the tag back through the overhand loop (include a swivel if necessary).
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- Step 4 – Now rotate the tag around the hooklink above the know a few time and pass the tag end back through the centre of the original overhand loop (think ‘blood knot’ for this bit).
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- Step 5 – Tighten down using the tag. Don’t pull on the loop like you would with a conventional figure of 8 loop knot otherwise you will end up with twists created in the loop (nasty!).
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- Step 6 – The loop should look like this! Lovely and round and neat.. A thing of beauty!
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- Step 7 – Trim off surplus tag material to finish (Note – I prefer to ‘blob’ the tag end for extra security – Lewis)
‘Clone Rig’ step by step guide:
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- The hook of choice, the amazingly versatile Gardner Incizor is perfect for the Clone (D) rig.
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- Step 1 – The Clone can be tied with all sorts of monofilamants, but our current favourite is our excellent Trick Link material – made for the job…
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- Step 2 – There are two patterns of hooks in the Gardner range suited to use in the Clone rig – the Covert Incizor or the Chod Hook. We favour the straight eyed Incizor.
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- Step 3 – All you need to do is tie the hook on using a simple (reliable) knotless knot.
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- Step 4 – The finished knot should look like this, with between 6 and 8 wraps neatly abutted and the hooklink exiting the inside of the hook eye.
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- Step 5 – Thread a large Covert Rig Ring onto the tag left from the knotless knot. You will attach your hookbait to this rig ring later…
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- Step 6 – Create a ‘D’ in the monofilament by passing it back through the eye of the hook and ‘blobbing’ the end with a lighter. Take care not to burn or damage the hooklink or the knot itself.
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- Step 7 – The hook and ‘D’ should look a little like this. A nice tidy D that sits squarely on the back of the hook shank. If its twisted (after pulling the knot tight) simply turn it so it is…
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- Step 8 – We favour a Non Slip loop knot at the lead end of the hooklink as it offers a little more free movement to the hook bait when it’s inhaled by feeding carp. Start with an overhand knot.
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- Step 9 – create a loop and pass the tag end through the overhand knot in the opposite direction and finish off with a blood knot (tag passed through original overhand and tightened using tag only).
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- Step 10 – You should be left with a really nice loop knot like the one shown (if the loop twists you have pulled on the loop whilst tightening down). Trim off the tag 2-3mm from the knot.
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- Step 11 – Use your nails to sheath the knot and hooklink and carefully blob the tag of the loop knot. This secures the knot in the event of you applying very heavy pressure.
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- The finished rig. If you use a slow (balanced) sinking hookbait the rig will always lay out nicely and reset if a fish samples it.
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